May 19

What’s New on Sihanoukville’s Serendipity Beach Road

The last time I reported on Sihanoukville’s Serendipity Beach Road (or Serendipity Road, if you like), it was to cover the fire that destroyed Mick & Craig’s, Monkey Republic, the Dive Shop and adjoining properties at the top of Mithona Road, which seems to have been renamed Serendipity Road by some interested parties. Anyway, I’m happy to say that work is proceeding rapidly on Mick & Craig’s and the Dive Shop seems to be near completion. Monkey Republic is fenced in and I couldn’t see any real signs of construction. With that out of the way, let’s move on to the cement road I call Serendipity Road.

Mick & Craig's on Serendipity Road, Sihanoukville Cambodia

Mick & Craig’s taking shape after the fire.

I mentioned a new complex at the top of the road awhile ago. The garden has filled in, the shops are thriving and the resort and restaurant at the top of the complex seem to have been discovered. The resort is called Blue Sea Boutique Resort and the restaurant trendily named “Pure.” I’m not sure if it’s operational yet or how well it’s doing, but will take a closer look as soon as I get a chance.

Blue Sea Resort and complex, Sihanoukville Cambodia

Moving along, I’m sorry to say that one of the last remaining timber structures, the one that housed Le Bistro Gourmand, has been torn down. It was just a matter of time, but I used to really enjoy having breakfast there. It will be interesting to see what they erect to replace it, but one thing’s for sure, whatever it is, it will be dwarfed by the nearly completed Nataya Holiday Villa. The photo below doesn’t really do the size of the resort justice. You can get a peak of the back of the hotel from Mithona Road and it looks like most of the rooms are behind its impressive front.

Nataya Resort, Sihanoukville Cambodia

Once it opens, Nataya will take over from Serendipity Beach Resort as the road’s biggest and most luxurious accommodation, but it looks like Serendipity Beach Resort will soon have another rival to contend with right next door. So far, it’s just a bunch of sticks and concrete, but that’s a lot more than was there just a month or so ago, so it looks like they’re moving full steam ahead.

New hotel on Serendipity Road, Sihanoukville, Cambodia

And that brings us to the bottom of the hill but not the end of what’s new on Sihanoukville’s Serendipity Beach Road. In fact, the “road” is being extended even further out on to the pier, which is being lengthened considerably.

Pier at Serendipity Beach, Sihanoukville Cambodia

Stepping off the pier and into the water, the Bali/Thailand-style upmarket health and yoga retreat set will be pleased to know that Akaryn Hospitality Management Services (AHMS), owner of 3 successful island resorts elsewhere, has announced plans to build a similar resort on Koh Krabeay. Called Akaryn Koh Krabeay Retreat & Spa, it’s scheduled to open in 2015. According to AHMS founder Anchalika Kijkanakorn as reported in the Thailand edition of the Nation:

The exciting thing about this project is that it gives us an opportunity to define, refine, innovate and create the ideal destination holistic and medical spa that redefines how we live today and equips the guest with tools they can use upon returning home to incorporate these measures and wisdoms into their daily lives.

It’s a good bet accommodation at this resort will probably be a lot more expensive than the many bungalows that have sprouted up on Koh Rong or Belinda Beach Lovely Resort on Koh Sdach, but not as expensive as a night on Song Saa Private Island.

Back on the mainland, her are some Sihanoukville accommodations on and around Serendipity Road you can check out:

Ocean Walk Inn
Coolabah Resort
Sea View Villa
Koh Pos Guesthouse

May 11

What’s New at Sihanoukville’s Otres Beach?

I’ve been pretty slack about covering new Sihanoukville hotels, restaurants and other attractions lately, so I decided to kill 2 birds with one stone today. I often go to Otres to work when I have to work on the weekend, but I usually forget to take my camera with me. Today I remembered and had a chance to catch up on what’s new at Sihanoukville’s Otres Beach.

elephant garden, otres beach, sihanoukville cambodia

I had every intention of going to the main beach, but ended up riding to the far end of Otres just out of habit, because I often go there to go sailing. It’s a good thing I did, because I stumbled on a great new place. According to the proprietor, Elephant Garden was finished 6 months ago. I missed it before because it’s about 2 doors down from Nautica, where they rent Hobie catamarans, but since I was on a mission to catch up on developments on Otres, I rode to the end of the road today. The Secret Garden at Otres Beach, which still has the only swimming pool on Otres Beach, is soon going to have a rival. Right next door, a new development is being built and their swimming pool takes pride of place smack dab in the middle of the land.

Other new Otres Beach accommodations at that end of the beach (semi-officially known as Otres 2) are the White Beach Bungalows, which I think are owned by the proprietors of Ochheuteal’s White Beach Hotel; Shangri La; and Footprints. There may be others, but those are the 3 names I can remember.

breakfast at elephant garden, otres beach, sihanoukville cambodiaAnyway, back to Elephant Garden. Right now, he has a great restaurant/bar and some grass bungalows on the beach side, but he’s planning on building a resort on the opposite side of the road.

The plan was to try breakfast there, do a little writing and then move on to some place else for lunch. The breakfast I got was so delicious and the background music so pleasant, I ended up claiming my table for the day.

I had a light workload, so after taking a swim and eating lunch, I decided to go up the beach road to the main part of Otres Beach. In case you’re wondering what I’m talking about, the 2 developed parts of Otres are divided by the 2 km long “Long Beach,” which is a designated public beach. There’s a walking path next to the road, a few gazebos, and a little landscaping, but that’s it. Not too popular with barang, Long Beach gets packed with Cambodian picnickers on weekends and holidays.

Everything seemed as I remembered it on the main drag until I came to the new OC Beach Club. I’d been watching it for months, but wasn’t sure what it was all about. Today just happened to be the perfect day to find out, because it was their grand opening. They were having a buffet dinner and Latin band to start off with a bang. At $30 a head, they wouldn’t have attracted much of a crowd a few years ago, but Sihanoukville is going upmarket and I believed him when the manager told me 70 people had already booked tables in advance.

OC Beach Club, Otres Beach, Sihanoukville, Cambodia

The bigger news, though, is what’s coming just across the street. The OC Beach Club is owned by the same people or group that owns Ochheuteal’s trendy looking OC Boutique Hotel and they’re just starting work on a giant resort directly across the street from the Beach Club. Just as the OC Beach Club dwarfs Moorea Beach, formerly the classiest bar/restaurant on Otres, their resort is going to be by far the biggest resort on the beach. At least for now.

When I reached the turn at the top of Otres, I noticed that the new Queenco “Palm Beach” restaurant had been landscaped and was open for business. I’m not sure what that winding concrete construction is, but I hope it’s going to be a water park for kids, because we really need more facilities for children in Sihanoukville. Queenco Leisure International Ltd. is one of the big players in Sihanoukville. They bought up 9 hectares of beachfront land on Victory Beach in 2008 and are planning on building a huge resort/casino there. The lovely Victory Beach Hotel is attached to their existing casino, but they are nothing in comparison to what’s on the drawing board for the empty land next door. They’ve also claimed the north end of Otres and I think this modest (by their standards) development is just the beginning. In fact, I’m sure it is.

Queenco's "Palm Beach", Otres Beach, Sihanoukville, Cambodia

I go to Otres Beach at least once a month, but I normally go to 1 of my favourite haunts. I’m glad I thought of my readers this week, because I learned how far behind the times I was. That’s easily done here. Things change fast in Sihanoukville and now that more flights are scheduled; we’re almost on the new electricity grid; the sewerage system is being upgraded; etc etc, things are going to start changing even faster. Hopefully I’ll be able to keep up the momentum and report on the changes in the Ochheuteal Beach and Serendipity Beach areas next week. Stay tuned.

 

May 04

Cambodian Workers Getting a Better Deal

I’m not saying Cambodia doesn’t still have a long way to go, but my contention has always been that the trend here is positive. A barrage of personal observations and news reports over the past couple of weeks has just strengthened my position. These are the top 6 reasons why I believe Cambodian workers are getting a better deal:

1) Last week somebody made an offer on our house. It was the first time an offer has been made in a couple of years. A little behind the times, I asked my friend Joe about land prices and building costs. Land prices have stayed pretty constant, but labour and materials costs have skyrocketed. When we built our house, the going rate was about $5 a day per worker. Now they’re asking for $15 a day and getting it. I turned down the offer because it wasn’t enough to cover replacement costs.

2) A neighbour of ours has been squeaking by on the little money she makes from doing laundry for years. Over the past couple of years, she’s been getting so much work, she’s been able to save money. Last month, a work crew, headed by a female carpenter, knocked down her little shack and built her a new stilt house. It’s still just a simple structure, but it’s nice and high off the ground, giving her more space to work and relax in the shade under the house.

Photo from National Public Radio broadcast cited in this article

3) Every year residents on our block toss dirt on the road in preparation for the rainy season. This year, they took up a collection and we got 24 trucks full of crushed asphalt laid down our road. Everybody pitched in as much as they could and no individual or family bore the brunt of the cost. In the past, we could never have afforded it.

4) In an article in the New York Times about growing business development in Cambodia, Peter Brimble, senior economist for Cambodia at the Asian Development Bank stated: “People along the Mekong River are being lifted out of poverty by foreign investment inflows driven by higher Chinese wages”. The same article said that some companies are offering better benefits to entice workers.

5) On International Labour Day, thousands of workers in Cambodia marched for better wages. They were demanding $150 a day. Prime Minister Hun Sen, far from having them beaten and dispersed, said, “This is their freedom” in front of a gathering of workers at Sihanoukville Autonomous Port. He went on to point out that in 2008, they were making a minimum of just $50 a month. In 2010, that jumped to $61 and in May of 2013 was up to $80. Hun Sen also said he would be happy if employers were able to increase wages.

6)Young men in our neighbourhood just quit if they’re being underpaid, overworked or feel mistreated. They don’t worry about it because, as one told me, “It’s easy to get a job now.”

20 years ago, Cambodia started over from scratch. Educated Cambodians were either dead or had fled the country. Land title and financial records had been destroyed. Education was virtually non-existent. Khmer Rouge were still lurking in the shadows. At the same time, the United States was at the top of the heap and even ordinary Americans were cashing in, thanks to rising property prices and easy loans. In 1999, the Euro became the official currency in Europe and countries like Greece, Spain, Portugal and Ireland were experiencing unprecedented growth thanks to cheap credit. Enough said about these countries’ growth since 2008.

invest-gfx-articleInline

Click image to visit source

Growth here in Cambodia has been far less dependent on credit than it was overseas. Foreign (mostly Chinese) aid has given the country a boost, but the scales are tipping as foreign businesses set up shop here, using their capital to spur growth. As I pointed out in a previous post, business investment in Cambodia per capita outstripped investment in China for the first time in 2012. Confidence in investing in Cambodia is so great, in fact, that even India is Competing with Cambodia for investment dollars and losing. Not only that, but Cambodia is now seen as less corrupt than India.

Interestingly, though, Cambodia is not just grabbing all it can get, but is taking a cautious approach. Only 606 new companies opened in Cambodia in the 1st quarter of 2013. That was a 33% drop from the 1st quarter of the previous year, but the reason was not because of lack of interest: it was because of a tightening of restrictions.

Cambodian banks are not lending money to unqualified borrowers like they did in the U.S. and Europe, either, much less dangling low interest starter loans to people to entice them to take out mortgages they can’t really afford. While that creates problems for low income families who could afford to pay back the loans, one lender seems to have found a way to help poorer Cambodians. I don’t know much about 1st Finance except what I learned from an article on National Public Radio and on their website, but the bank does take a unique approach tailored to Cambodians’ special circumstances. They send credit officers into the field to observe applicants at work and see how popular their businesses are. No, I haven’t been compensated by 1st Finance and can’t vouch for them. I just think it’s an interesting concept and if they are as committed to helping Cambodians as they say they are, they could make a big difference to a lot of lives. Listen to the audio or read the transcript on NPR, New Mortgage Program Helps Cambodia’s Poor Find Better Homes, and decide for yourself.

Apr 28

Cambodia Business News

Cambodia business news has been coming thick and fast over the past few weeks. So fast, in fact, I haven’t been able to keep up with it all. I’ll start with something I heard this morning, though, because if you’re interested in Sihanoukville, you should be interested in news about our electricity supply.

My last blog included a photograph of the new Sihanoukville power station. Well, according to informed sources, including a Malaysian executive who has been working there, it’s ready to go operational. All they have to do is finish the worker training program and then they can switch the lights on, so to speak. This is going to have an enormous impact on every aspect of life in Sihanoukville. For example, one of the reasons for our power outages has been that they had to divert power to the Sihanoukville Airport when flights came in or departed. That will become a thing of the past and the airport will be able to operate at full capacity.

In Other Cambodia Business News

Graph from NY Times article cited here.

Wary of China, Companies Head to Cambodia appeared in the New York Times on the 8th of April. Surprisingly free of the usual patronising jargon, the article told about all the companies that are establishing businesses here in Cambodia. According to the article, the reason is simple: “They want to limit their overwhelming reliance on factories in China.” In 2012, more money was invested by businesses in Cambodia per capita than in China, so it’s not just speculation, but fact. Cambodia is growing and thriving.

Another article about Cambodia and China appeared on the Radio Free Asia blog. As expected, Cambodia Scores More Aid From China did take a few cheap shots here and there, but that’s to be expected from RFA. Interestingly, just after “expressing concern” that “well-connected” companies that did shoddy work were given contracts in the past, the article went on to say: “The quality of a Chinese company’s construction of a key Cambodian highway—National Road 7—came under widespread criticism for shoddy work last year, including from Hun Sen.” The emphasis there is mine. It’s doubtful Hun Sen is going to give contracts to those companies in the future. No matter how “well-connected” they are, Cambodia’s future depends on its infrastructure. No one knows this better than Prime Minister Hun Sen.

Hun Sen returns to Cambodia from China, 10 April 2013

Hun Sen returns to Cambodia from China – photo from RFA article cited here

Finally, while most visitors to Sihanoukville still insist on thinking of it as a sleepy tourist town and little more, behind the scenes, the city continues to become an increasingly vital part of the Cambodian economy in more important ways. The Phnom Penh Post reports, Sihanoukville port volume increases 15 per cent as compared with the first quarter of the previous year. What happens at Sihanoukville Autonomous Port speaks volumes about what’s happening throughout Cambodia. As Din Virak, Managing Director of V Capital Institute was quoted as saying, “When imports of items such as machinery, fuel or cement increase, it means there is more investment activity to generate economic benefits.”

 

Apr 20

Our Khmer New Year 2013

Well, Khmer New Year 2013 is finally over and life is back to normal. Every year, my family goes to at least one wat a day and then we have a Big Day Out. After going to a wat outside of town, we proceed to a picnic spot. This year, we did a grand tour, starting with a wat far outside of town. From there, we made a loop, first on a little-used road to Steung Hau and then a back road to Kbal Chhai waterfall.

Buddha on hill

I love this wat because it’s on a hill and there are lots of mini-wats scattered up the hillside until you reach the big Buddha that looks down over Route 4 and sweeping views of the countryside. There are no groomed paths – you have to pick your way up the rocky hill – and there are even some wild monkeys. By wild, I mean wild. Some little boys chased one and it bit one of them on the hand. Poor kid.

Khmer New Year was good to us this year. After too long without rain, the rains came around the beginning of the celebrations and hung around throughout the week. At the same time, we got our power back; almost full-time. After the reservoir went dry, they had to use the power to get water from the big reservoir near Kbal Chhai and we were without power about 12 hours a day.

new power grid in Steung Hau

Of course, throughout that period the expat rumour mill was going full tilt. There’s a vocal minority of Sihanoukville expats who say with all the authority in the world that there’s some mysterious corrupt official in charge of the power generator who shuts it off to save money and pockets the savings (or something like that). I know, it doesn’t make sense because:

  1. Shutting it down and starting it up is more costly than keeping it going and
  2. It’s not just us peons who are inconvenienced by power outages. The port facilities, Sokha Resort, the brewery and other influential enterprises have to fire up their generators.

Making sense doesn’t really matter to these disgruntled individuals. Complaining is a way of life for them. It would be funny if not for the fact that they love to go on forums and boast about their “inside knowledge” about corruption in Cambodia. Unfortunately, naive readers take the bait and the rumours are taken at face value. “Hey, this guy has lived in Sihanoukville a long time. He must know the score!” No he just hangs out in bars, swaps rumours with other unhappy expats and passes them on to newcomers.

Anyway, as the photo above shows, that shadowy figure’s days are numbered, because our current generator is soon to be replaced by a real power station. As we drove up the road to Steung Hau, I followed the new power lines from Kampot and not long after passing the entrance to what will become the Steung Hau SEZ (Special Economic Zone), the power poles came to an abrupt halt at that maze of poles in the distance.

back road tro Kbal Chhai waterfall

It seemed like we were taking the long way to Kbal Chhai, but a left turn down this tree-lined dirt road took us to a back entrance on the other side of the river. The river was flowing nicely thanks to the rains and the hordes of Cambodian families were making the most of it.

Kbal Chhai waterfall near Sihanoukville Cambodia

Finally, it was time to go, but everyone in our rented truck were in jovial spirits, so we went for a loop of the back residential roads of Sihanoukville, where groups of children and teenagers were waiting for passers-by to throw water bombs at. Our driver got into the spirit of it all and slowed to a crawl to make sure everyone got thoroughly dowsed.

As it is every year, it was a great day.

 

 

Apr 12

Cambodia Airlines to Launch International Flights

I love it when I’m right. I’ve been arguing that it was just a matter of time before Cambodia started getting direct international flights. I just wasn’t sure whether a Cambodian carrier would get the ball rolling or a more established airline company. It looks like it was a little of both.

Cambodia Airlines launch

Click photo to visit source article

Cambodia Airlines is a joint venture between the Cambodian owned Royal Group and the San Miguel Corporation, who have a controlling interest in Philippine Airlines. They’re going to start off relatively small, with just 2 domestic aircraft and 2 international aircraft. Initially, international flights will be between Manila and Phnom Penh only, but Kith Meng, chairman of the Royal Group, says they have every intention of expanding services from other ASEAN and east Asian countries, according to an article published in Routes News, an Aviation Media online publication.

While googling for more information about international flights to Cambodia, I stumbled across another article that mentioned Cambodia. The rather long-winded title of the article was Qatar Airways CEO Addresses Media About The Airline’s Global Expansion Plans On The Sidelines Of New Chicago Route Launch and I wouldn’t have stuck with it if Google hadn’t assured me that Cambodia got a mention. Sure enough, down towards the bottom, it said, “Media also heard of the airline’s aggressive expansion so far this year that has seen Chicago joined by new additions to Qatar Airways’ global map – namely, Phnom Penh in Cambodia, the Iraqi city of Najaf, and Gassim in Saudi Arabia” (bold type is mine).

I find it interesting that we barang seem to be left out of the international flights loop. I may be reading too much into it, but no less an authority than the UNDP’s 2013 Human Development Project predicts that more than half of the world’s middle class will likely be in Asia in coming decades. I got this tidbit of information from an article titled Power Shift Under Way As Middle Class Expands In Developing World on npr. The graph below shows just how dramatic the shift is going to be and that the Asia-Pacific region is going to get the biggest slice of the pie.

graph showing projected growth of middle class in the Southern Hemisphere

Graph from npr article cited above. Read the rest of the article and get an education.

Not that I think Europe, North America and Australia/NZ will be left out of the loop altogether. I think they’ll probably be serviced by connecting flights from Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, Kuala Lumpur and maybe Singapore. I just think that it looks like Cambodia is focusing on tourist and business visitors from the Asia-Pacific because that’s where the growth is coming from.

Update: 3 May 2013

An article published on May 02 in CAPA, the Centre for Aviation, Cambodia Angkor Air plans network and fleet expansion ahead of PAL-backed Cambodia Airlines launch confirms what I wrote about the target market for Cambodian airline companies, stating, “The rapid growth in Cambodia’s market over the last two years has been driven partially by a large influx of tourists from throughout China” and “Cambodia Angkor Air is targeting mainland China, Hong Kong, India and South Korea for the next phase of its expansion plan.” It also mentions how the launch of Cambodia Airlines has spurred Cambodia Angkor Air to expand its services.

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